If you’re planning a walking adventure in the Lake District, the Haystacks walk is a must-do. This fell in the Western Fells is celebrated as Alfred Wainwright’s favourite – so much so that his ashes were scattered at Innominate Tarn near the summit. With rocky outcrops, peaceful tarns, and wide panoramas over Buttermere and Crummock Water, Haystacks has a charm that rivals much bigger fells.
For many walkers, the most popular and straightforward route begins at Honister Slate Mine on Honister Pass, making it both accessible and rewarding.
Haystacks Walk: What Makes It Special?
- Location: Western Fells, overlooking Buttermere and Ennerdale.
- Height: 597m (not the tallest, but one of the most characterful).
- Unique Points:
- Home to picturesque tarns, including Innominate Tarn and Blackbeck Tarn.
- Craggy summit with exciting rocky steps and scrambles.
- Historically important thanks to Wainwright’s enduring affection.
- Why Popular:
- Manageable climb for most reasonably fit walkers.
- Superb views without needing to tackle Lakeland’s highest peaks.
- Rich variety of terrain — quarry tracks, tarns, crags, and ridges.
Starting the Walk at Honister
Honister Slate Mine is the ideal starting point for this hike. Sitting at the top of Honister Pass between Borrowdale and Buttermere, it offers parking, a visitor centre, and direct access to old quarry tracks that lead towards Haystacks.
The historical backdrop adds to the experience – you’re walking along routes once used by slate workers, with dramatic views opening up as you climb.
Route Description: Honister to Haystacks
- Start/Finish: Honister Slate Mine
- Distance: 5–6 miles (out-and-back), or longer with circular variations
- Time: 3–5 hours depending on pace and chosen route
- Difficulty: Moderate – steady climbs, rocky summit
Out-and-Back Route (Most Popular)
- From Honister Slate Mine, follow the quarry track behind the buildings.
- Climb steadily towards Drum House, a key junction with excellent views of Borrowdale.
- From Drum House, turn left and follow the path towards Haystacks.
- Pass Blackbeck Tarn and continue towards Innominate Tarn, where Wainwright’s ashes rest.
- Make the final climb over rocky ground to reach the summit.
- Return by the same path for a steady descent.
Fleetwith Pike Route Variation
For a longer day, combine Haystacks with nearby fells:
- Haystacks & Fleetwith Pike Loop: Back track from the summit of Haystacks to Drumb House then divert left towards Fleetwith Pike before descending back to Honister. This adds distance and more climbing but rewards with dramatic views down into Buttermere.
- Haystacks via Buttermere: A tougher alternative starts in Buttermere, climbs via Scarth Gap Pass, and returns over Haystacks to Honister (requires transport planning for start/finish).
Haystacks Circular Walk Map
It’s strongly recommended to carry an OS Map (Explorer OL4 or OL6) or a GPS navigation app. Even though the paths are well used, the weather in the fells can change quickly, and visibility can drop. A map will help you follow the circular variations confidently.
Tips for Walking Haystacks
- Footwear: Good walking boots with grip – the rocky sections can be slippery.
- Weather: Always check the forecast before setting off. Conditions can change fast at altitude.
- Navigation: Carry a paper map or digital map backup.
- Supplies: Bring snacks, water, and layers. There are no facilities once you leave Honister.
- Timing: Start early if you plan the longer circular route to allow plenty of daylight.
Why Choose the Honister Route?
While Haystacks can be climbed from Buttermere or Ennerdale, starting at Honister Slate Mine has distinct advantages:
- Higher starting point (356m), meaning less overall ascent.
- Clear, well-maintained paths thanks to the quarry heritage.
- Facilities including parking, café, and information centre.
It’s the most practical option for first-time visitors and those looking for a manageable yet rewarding introduction to the Western Fells.
Final Thoughts
The Honister Slate Mine to Haystacks walk is one of the Lake District’s finest hikes – not because of sheer height, but because of its unique mix of history, variety, and views. For Wainwright, it was the fell that captured his heart, and for today’s walkers, it remains one of the most enjoyable and accessible adventures.
Whether you follow the out-and-back route or extend your day with a circular variation, starting from Honister Slate Mine guarantees a memorable journey into the heart of the Western Fells.
